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Lisbon's Rich and Lengthy Tapestry

Lisbon is a classically ancient, modern city. If that sounds like a contradiction, it is not, for it offers a rich combination of old and new that gives the visitor more to see and do than might be imagined.

The city goes back a very long way, though it is of course a Greek myth that Ulysses founded the city. However, the Phoenicians did establish Lisbon on the banks of the Tagus estuary in 1200 BC as an important trading port. It still is today.

In between times, the city had a turbulent history, passing through Roman hands, then, like the rest of the empire, overrun by various tribes. The first of these, in 409 AD, was the Alans. While they were soon ousted by the Suevi, visitors called Alan are of course welcome to visit Lisbon today, which has a broad range of accomodation from the five star to cheap hotels.

While the city declined under barbarian tribes, it grew again in later centuries as first the Moors arrived, then, following their ousting in the 12th century, Lisbon became both a city and eventually Portugal's capital. The discoveries of Vasco De Gama and Portugal's imperial growth were interspersed by Spanish and Napoleonic occupations, but every decline was followed by revival, with the 20th century city being modernised at the expense of the rest of Portugal, which was under the Salazar dictatorship from 1926 until 1974.

Such a rich and varied history is reflected in both the layout and architecture of the city. For instance, visitors to the Alfama district will not be able to see any buildings from that time, but the street layout is characteristic of the compact, crowded Kasbah style.

Another feature is the shape of the central city, laid out in gridlines that appear to defy its ancient origins. The explanation lies in the planning that followed the devastating earthquake of 1755, which wrecked the city and killed an estimated 15,000 people.

Each period of history brought its own buildings, with those surviving the earthquake offering both architectural splendour and fascinating cultural insights, many inherited from the immigrant communities as a legacy of empire.

The Se, the city's cathedral, is a classic case in point. Its construction in the Alfama district signifies the ousting of the Islamic Moors, while its mixture of romanesque and gothic features is indicative of its rebuilding after 1755 and numerous other renovations. Amongst its treasures are the sarcophagi of Lopo Fernandes Pacheco, a 14th century nobleman, the tombs of Alfonso IV and his wife, relics associated with St Vincent and numerous elegant carvings and fittings.

In the redesigned centre of the city, more modern styles pervade, partly influenced by 20th century modernity with its trams and bustling commercial streets, but also featuring neo-classical buildings, most notably the huge arch in Praca do Comercio. The risk of another earthquake, however, has spared Lisbon any soulless skyscrapers. The Monsanto Fort remains the highest point in the city.

Other central districts have their charms as well. Bairro Alto and Estrela are filled with fashionable houses and shopping, plus some of Lisbon's best restaurants and nightlife, not to mention the national theatre, while Belem is replete with museums, parks, gardens and grand churches, dating from the halcyon days of discovery in the time of Vasco De Gama. Among the attractions here are the national museums of archaeology and popular art, along with the city's botanic gardens. There is also a promenade along the river bank.

While the older parts of the city have all these attractions, the wider area offers much more to discover. There is the Gulbenkian cultural foundation, a major centre for theatre and the arts. Sports fans can watch the city's two giant football clubs, Benfica and Sporting, with the former playing in the famous Stadium of Light. Before every game an eagle, the clubs' emblem, flies down onto the pitch to pick up its next meal before the home team set about trying to devour the opposition. Motorsport fans can also indulge their passion at Estoril, a few miles west of the city.

Getting around Lisbon is not hard. The public transport network is substantial, the older trams being supplemented by trains and a modern underground system, while the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge, built in the days of Salazar, forms a spectacular crossing of the Tago.

All this beauty, culture and ease of movement does not even begin to touch on the greatest asset of Lisbon – its climate. Mild in the winter, it offers an escape from the frozen north. In the summer, July and August are hot and almost entirely rainless. At this time, some visitors may head for the Algarve, but those who do so without stopping to take in this fascinating and historically rich city will miss out on far too much.

This article is provided by Hotels Hotels Hotels suppliers of cheap hotels in Lisbon

Updated: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 00:00:00

Related Links:
Lisbon Tourist Board
Lisbon Airport