Mad for Madrid

When it comes to Spanish affairs, Madrid is literally at the centre of things, set in the middle of the high plateau of Castillian Spain. If Barcelona is the home of the alternative, the rebel, the innovator, Madrid is the bustling powerhouse that is master of all it surveys.

Power, of course, comes in many forms, with Spain's history providing a heady mixture of popular and unpopular kings, democracy, war and dictatorship, before returning to democracy in 1975 and joining the European Community in 1986. Madrid has been the focus of a turbulent history.

Yet for all that, it is a city with immense grandeur, impressive palaces and civic buildings, alongside the sleek steel and glass skyscrapers that mark it out as a modern financial centre.

It wasn't always thus. Madrid today is a city of 3.5 million people, with two million more in the rest of the metropolitan area, but it was never more than a small settlement in Roman times, only growing to prominence in the middle ages.

A Moorish city during the time of the Ottoman Empire, it was captured by Alfonso VI in 1025 and converted from Islam to Catholicism, although Jews and Moors remained in the city until the late 15th century.

The development of Madrid, however, was somewhat late in happening, in contrast to other European capitals. While the city was established as the throne of the Castilian kingdom, the population was small and Madrid lacked the grandeur of its contemporaries. This changed in the 18th century, particularly under Carlos III (1759-88) when most of the main civic buildings, including the Royal Palace, Royal Theatre, Botanical Gardens, Natural Science Museum, Royal Mint and several fountains were constructed.

Modern Madrid has seen its fortunes fluctuate, coming under brutal Napoleonic occupation before liberating itself in the early 19th century, a period of peaceful rule marked by the growth of democracy but also political tensions and occasional revolutions, before the tumultuous events that led to the civil war in the 1930's and the Franco fascist regime which lasted until 1975.

For a city at the heart of a relatively young democracy, Madrid today might appear quite peaceful and orderly, with a notable feature being the outstanding way in which the development of the modern city has not usurped the historic character of its grand old buildings in any revolutionary manner. The sense of establishment exists, even in a city which has seen its establishment change so much.

For the discerning visitor, who will find plenty of cheap hotels in the city, a trip to see some museums is always a good idea. However, one thing that will immediately become apparent to those who do is the cultural depth of the city, with the Museo del Prado, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia all displaying a large range of artworks and sculptures from the ancient to the contemporary.

For heritage, the royal history is also close at hand, with the Palacio Real, no longer a royal residence but replete with all the trappings and grandeur of monarchy.

Of course, when it comes to all things royal, or Real, the giant football club based in the heart of the city is the sporting face of the Spanish establishment. As elsewhere, the rivalry with Barcelona is as much cultural, historical and political as sporting, but the status of Real Madrid as one of the world's great football clubs is not in doubt. Once the club of Di Stefano, Puskas and Gento, latterly that of Raul, Zidane and Beckham, the club offers an intoxicating mixture of style and immense success, with a trip to the 80,000 capacity Bernabeu Stadium a must for any visitor with an interest in football. Given such glamour, it is small wonder that fans of rivals Atletico Madrid are known as the sufferers.

While football is a world game, other sports are distinctly vernacular, few more so than bullfighting, a controversial form of entertainment, at least to outsiders. Plaza de Toros is the place to go for those who wish to see it.

Entertainment by night is both different but similar. The similarity comes in the wide range of bars, clubs and restaurants that the city offers, the difference in the lateness of the opening hours as the positive effects of the mid-afternoon siesta take effect. Puerta Del Sol is the central location most associated with an after-hours culture that has flourished since Franco.

Yet Madrid caters for all ages and tastes. The Teatro Real offers opera. The Jardin Botanico and Parque del Retiro offer fresh air, greenery and peace, while the Plaza Mayor offers the chance to buy traditional goods at low prices.

Madrid may not have a beach like Barcelona, nor the exclusively historical charms of Lisbon. Yet it offers a vista of grandeur, of vibrancy, of modern and historic in a harmony that belies its often turbulent history, not just in its buildings, but in its culture. Madrid is not just the ancient heart of Spain; it is a living heart.

This article is provided by Hotels Hotels Hotels suppliers of cheap hotels in Madrid

Updated: Fri, 02 Feb 2007 00:00:00

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